<![CDATA[Janine Allen - Professional Dog Trainer - Blog]]>

<![CDATA[Janine Allen - Professional Dog Trainer - Blog]]>Fri, 08 May 2026 09:56:23 -0700Weebly<![CDATA[Is your dog getting in your way?]]>Fri, 26 Dec 2025 17:44:15 GMThttp://www.janineallen.com/blog/is-your-dog-getting-in-your-way

Does your dog get underfoot as you move through the house or yard? Is walking on a leash difficult because your dog is criss-crossing dangerously in front of your path? Is it difficult to work with your performance dog who always wants to swing in front of you and look you straight in the eye?

From day one of adopting a dog we humans want to connect with our dogs face to face. We talk to them when they are in front of us. We call them to us and reward them for being in front of us. We initiate play by bringing a toy in front of us. We set the bowl of food down in front of us. We train them to sit, lie down, shake hands, stack in the show ring, retrieve to hand in front of us. Being in front of us is very rewarding.

But could you change that by convincing your dog that being at your side is equally rewarding? Can each of you turn your heads in such a fashion that you can easily have eye contact with your dog at your side? Can you talk to and pet your dog when they are at your side, or when YOU have moved to THEIR side? Can you initiate tug with a toy at your side? Can you place the food bowl down at your side? Can you give all food rewards and treats by moving to your dog’s side (instead of demanding that they move to YOUR side) and feeding there instead of feeding from the front?

This type of default behavior at your side has no effect on performance Sit In Front when the Sit In Front has been appropriately taught and reinforced only when the cue has been given.

]]><![CDATA[October 19th, 2025]]>Sun, 19 Oct 2025 15:55:46 GMThttp://www.janineallen.com/blog/october-19th-2025It is so much easier to prevent fear, aggression, and unwanted behavior than to "fix" or reduce it.

]]><![CDATA[Are you fueling your dog's unwanted behavior?]]>Sat, 22 Mar 2025 21:08:13 GMThttp://www.janineallen.com/blog/are-you-fueling-your-dogs-unwanted-behavior

]]><![CDATA[September 26th, 2024]]>Thu, 26 Sep 2024 14:55:53 GMThttp://www.janineallen.com/blog/september-26th-2024

]]><![CDATA[Three choices you can make to help your dog to become more calm and less over-aroused, reactive, aggressive, fearful, barky. PART ONE]]>Wed, 20 Oct 2021 14:32:38 GMThttp://www.janineallen.com/blog/three-choices-you-can-make-to-help-your-dog-to-become-more-calm-and-less-over-aroused-reactive-aggressive-fearful-barky-part-oneThree choices you can make to help your dog to become more calm and less over-aroused, reactive, aggressive, fearful, barky.

PART ONE

1. Desensitize
Desensitization is a process of exposing a dog to a trigger by starting at a very low level of intensity or at a great distance and building up very slowly. It should be systematic, which means you have a plan to build up gradually. At every step of the way, your dog should be happy and comfortable and not overly aroused.

If your dog starts showing body language that he/she is fearful or reactive, you need to immediately go back to an easier stage of the plan. The obvious signs would be barking, growling, lunging, or escape attempts. Less obvious would be raised hair on dog’s back, hard stare, dropped tail or raised tail, stiff leg movements, ears sharply forward or plastered to dog’s head. If you jump ahead too fast and frighten or agitate your dog, then you will have slower progress or possibly make the reaction worse.

Over time, you will gradually increase your dog’s exposure to the trigger that causes his reaction, keeping his response under threshold.]]><![CDATA[DOES YOUR DOG PULL ON LEASH?]]>Wed, 22 Sep 2021 18:29:40 GMThttp://www.janineallen.com/blog/does-your-dog-pull-on-leash Pulling on Leash

Why does a dog insist upon continually pulling on his leash and what can be done to stop it?

First, recognize what you are up against. Does your dog pull because you walk too slow? Because there are wonderful things that he needs to smell? Because there are other dogs and people to see? Because he wants to get back home to eat his dinner?

How can you make things easier for both of you? Walk faster? Walk him on a longer leash (10+ feet) so he can move around more with less restriction? Walk him in areas where other dogs haven’t left their mark, like the middle of quiet neighborhood street? Walk him at times where you don’t see many other people or dogs? Stop giving him that anticipated treat when you get home? Feed him dinner from your pocket while you are walking him so he isn’t rushing home to get fed?

A great way to get a dog to not pull on the leash is to get him to WANT to be by your side. Practicing at home in a confined space using food rewards will increase your dog’s desire to STAY by your side because his options are fewer. Let him roam around the room and when he comes anywhere near your side give him a treat.

Does your dog only pull as soon as he steps out the door? Immediately take him back inside and start the walk all over again. Only continue with the walk when he can calmly step out the door with you (and, of course, receive a treat reward for doing so well). Some dogs may take 15 to 20 restarts before starting a walk. Don't worry, if you are consistent, this number of repetitions will drastically decrease.

During your walk, if your dog pulls, go back 10-15 steps and walk him through that same area again. Go back and repeat as many times as needed. Only continue on when your dog can calmly walk forward.

Bottom line.....REWARD your dog for not pulling and start your walk over again if he does pull.

This DOES work and YOU can do this!

Cheers!

Janine

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